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Haunted Pack: Book of Ghostly Reveleations
copyright 1998 by Magic-ian
Illustrations by G. Anthony Luhs

The original handling of this deck was more
than adequate when first introduced. You
will find, however, that the set-up and
attachment described in this book is much
more effective and makes a more successful
performance, and a more versatile gimmick.
The bold moves are all covered by
misdirection and body moves and designed to
completely baffle yet make the magician
comfortable before during and after the
performance. After 25 years of
demonstrating and performing for both
amateurs and professionals, the routines
within these pages will prove worthy for any
act and fool both audience and magicians.

Haunted Pack: originated by Louis Tannen, the
haunted pack has been long overlooked mostly due to
a few lost routines and variations in performance
methods. The original methods are included here, but
the balance of the routines depend upon the easier
and more effective handling methods.

HOW IT WORKS: Half of the deck has been drilled
through the center. A length of thread is threaded
through the holes. The thread is attached to the
uppermost card by means of a disc or circle cut from
another card. The disc also serves to make a slight
break in the deck between the lower and upper
(unpunched) half. The free end of the thread has a
safety pin attached to it. The thread may be
lengthened or shortened after you try out the trick.
Extend the line, and then place the cards in the box.
Pin the safety pin on the right front side of your pants
(between the knee and the ankle). Now place the
deck between your legs (from front), and into your
left rear pocket. You are now ready to perform.
Presentation: I recommend standing behind a bar or
counter, or you may do this trick and stand behind a
table. Adjust the line or practice moves in an area
similar to where you intend to perform. Take the
deck from your rear left pocket with your left hand.
The string should become taut by the time you bring
the cards in front of you (about 8" from your chest).
The line will be hidden by your left wrist and
forearm, and your body will obscure the rest. If you
lean your left knee forward and your right knee
backward, a slack in the line will form.

Remove the deck from the box. Overhand shuffle
the top half of the deck a few times. (it will appear
as though the entire deck is being shuffled). Have
the spectator pick a card as you fan the top half of
the deck, or you can slide the top cards from one
hand to the other. The first victim takes a card.
Continue sliding a cards as a second and third is
chosen. You must be careful, of course, not to go
deeper than halfway or you will run into the
threaded cards. Once the cards -are chosen, square
the deck and tell the victim to memorize the cards.
Take the first card from them; and insert it all the
way into the deck below the halfway break (into the
threaded section). NOTE: YOU MAY HAVE TO LET

Place the deck on the table, about 3" or 4" from the
edge of the table. Place your thumb at the rear of the
deck (over the line) and your spread left fingers to the
side rear of the deck. Your right hand should be
placed at the same position to the right of the deck so
as not to let either hand look suspicious. As you gaze
at the deck, move your left knee slowly backward as
you move your right knee forward. This will pull on
the line and make the top half of the deck (from
below the selected card and up), move forward.
Keep moving and the deck will straighten up leaving
just the selected card protruding from the deck.
Remove the card and show it. Scoop the deck into
your hand and place the selection back into the deck
from the side, and only slightly below the break in
the deck. Take the next card and slip it in from the
front (a little lower than the first card). Take the
last card and slip it in from the other side (a little
lower than the second card).
NOTE: This alternate method may be done standing,
the line (although visible) will not be noticed
because the attention is on the deck. This time,
square the cards and put them on your outstretched
palm secretly letting the line go between your
middle and second finger and hidden by the back of
your hand. Motion with the right hand, again as you
move your knees in opposite directions. The deck
will now cut in three directions (the way you
inserted them is the way they. will move out).
You may want to follow this basic routine with
moves described in #6, P7, and P8.

1) BASIC CARD RISE: with the selected card in the gimmicked deck section (lower half). Hold the deck firmly at its sides (the long edges), or wrap your hand completely around the deck. Pull the line slowly, as you let the selected card rise upwards. Pull it out and let the spectator hold the card for a brief moment to inspect it.
2) ON THE TABLE: Have the selected card placed
in the lower (gimmicked half of the deck. Place the
deck in front of you with short end of the deck
(inserted side) towards the spectator. Place your
thumb behind the deck (on the line) to hide the line
and keep the deck from sliding while you pull on it.
Slowly have the half of the deck move forward
(caused by the selected card being pushed out by the
line and the deck resting on top of it. Once the card
is maximum forward, keep pulling as the deck
completes the cut with the upper half returning to
the squared position. The selected card will remain
protruding out of the deck. You may now release
the grip from behind the deck. to placing your hand
on the top of the deck, as your other hand removes
the selected card. Pick up the deck, show the
selected card to be the one chosen, and place it back
in the pack.

3) ON THE FLOOR: this floor method was one of
the first routines included in the Louis Tannen
instruction. The line was placed on a rug surface
which obscured it as the deck laid on the center of
the floor. The spectators would gather around the
deck in a circle as if in a seance and join hands
which would include the performer. As all eyes are
on the deck, the performer places his foot on the pin
(closed) and pulls the pin away from the deck using
pressure from his foot (some methods used a bead or
small ball on the end of the line allowing the foot to
control the line better). This would cause the first of
four cards to move the deck first forward and then
backwards. The remaining cards would then be
revealed in four different directions. The four cards
would of course come out of the deck in the
direction of the spectators who chose them.

4) 4 WAY CUT: The line allows you to insert the
cards from each of the four directions of the deck,
the cards will come out just as you put them in and
in the order that you place them in, Each time you
place the card in, you must do so starting at the
upper most section of the lower half of the deck
(about 6 to eight cards from the start of the gimmick.
Then, allow or release some tension on the line to
allow the second card to be place in the deck about 6
to 10 cards lower, repeat this line release until all
four cards are in the deck. Your line will have been
reduced by about a foot, so .adjust your connection
accordingly. Slowly pull on the line and allow each
card to be produced slowly and with small pauses
between. This is a stunner because .the
multi-directions blow all theories as to how. the deck
works. The spectator might figure out how the card
moves in one direction (forward), and the
re-alignment is already baffling, then to have the
move and re-alignment happen in four directions
requires a lot of thought.

5) IN THE GLASS: the addition of a glass to have the
card rise out of the deck allows the spectator to
believe that the deck is in no way attached to
anything, it is not immediately conceivable that the
line would go from the connection, into the glass and
under the card, but it does, so with no apparent
tactile connection to the deck, the card mysteriously'
rises from the deck while in the glass.
on the table

6) IN THE PACK CARD RISE: after having the deck
produce cards mysteriously, place one more card
into the deck ready to rise. Put the entire deck into
its box and just as the hand places the card flush in
the box, pull on the line and let the card rise quickly,
like a reluctant animal getting out of its cage. Repeat
this fast rise as you keep shoving the card back into
the box, saying "stay, stay". On the last time you
push it, remove it from its position, scold it like a
bad dog, and place it into the normal section of the

box is still open, and you've completed the basic 'in
the pack card rise, pull on the line and let the half of
the deck try to escape, the lower half will rise to the
center of the deck out of the box, just do this once
and then close the box lid. Follow it up with the
spooky deck movement.

8) SPOOKY DECK MOVEMENT: Back-to-you pack
move. While the main portion of the routine has
been completed, and the deck has been placed back
in the box. Place the box (with line still attached,
towards the spectator and ignore it for a brief
second. If the spectator goes to reach for the box,
have your hand on the edge of the table and laying
on the line and pull the deck into your hand. The
deck will seem to move by itself frorn one end of the
table to the other with the same element of surprise
as the main effect.

9) FLYING CARD: after handling and mastering the
basic routines, and learning how to re-string your
deck, you can try this effect. Have a card in the
lower gimmicked half of the deck, about the middle
of the gaff. Squeeze the deck so as not to allow the
card to come out, but....pull on the line causing a
tension. Release your hand grip just enough to let
the card come out. Do this sharply. The card will
jump as though on a rubber band {or more like
propelled by a slingshot). This will cause the card to
fly into the air. If you practice and direct this flying
card from one hand in an arc to the other, you can
catch it with the opposite hand. It's really great
when you can catch it face out and between your
fingers and thumb without a fumble. This is worth
the busted line from time to time if you can master
it. You can also shoot the card onto the center of the
table by aiming at the table top without as much

HAND): Have the gaffed half of the deck on the top
of the pack. Catch the loop in the opposite hand
between the middle fingers with your hand stretched
face up . Tug at the line which will pull the strung
half of the deck from the top of the pack across to
the waiting opposite hand. Cornplete the mystical
cut of the cards by placing the ungimmicked cards
onto the top of the gimmicked half.
like the basic card rise,
hold the deck by it's long
edges ready to let the card
rise up. Rub your fingers as
if to create a static electric
attraction or magnetic
attraction and touch the top
or short width end of the
cards. Pull the line and let
your fingers raise with the
rise of the card. It will
appear as if your fingers
have an attraction or
stickiness as the card rises 
under your fingertips.

12) CARD STEAL: use the deck as a secret gimmick
to feed cards into your hand. Hold the deck
sideways, with face to the spectator. Cover the deck
briefly with your hand and allow the card to feed
from the center of the deck into your palm. (the
back of your hand is to the spectator). With card in
palm, place the fed card onto the face of the deck,
then remove the hand to reveal the selected card.
This will appear that the face of the card has changed
to the the selected card.

13) SECONDS DEAL: (auto deal): have the gaffed
half of the deck on the top of the stock. Place an ace
in the gimmick about two cards down from the top.
Place a regular card on the top of the deck, show it's
face and leave it on the deck. As you pretend to
place the card on the table, pull the line which will
feed the ace from the deck as you grasp it instead of
the top card, follow through with your hand
movement as if to deal the top card onto the table.
The illusion will be perfect and will seem that you
have dealt the top card from the top of the deck.
Reveal the card to be an ace.

14) UNDER CLOTH: Placing the deck under a cloth
will hide your line a little better, but also implies that
there is less of a connection between you and the
deck. The spooky movement under a cloth will keep
their attention, and the very neat look of a card cut
out of the deck when you remove the cloth implies a
ghostly intervention under the cloth. If you need to
steady the deck from on top of the cloth, do so. But
touching the deck through the cloth could imply that
you merely cut the deck in some way through
manipulation, not a bad reputation to have, but your
job is to imply a ghostly manifestation.

"forced" from the top half of the deck (or another
deck). Burn it in an ashtray as you wave the haunted
deck over the flame. Have a duplicate in the
haunted deck and proceed with any method of
revelation as the burned card returns and rises from
the ashes.

16) HALF DECK VANISH: Many times the spectator
will ask to see the deck after the many revelations
you perform. Have a normal half deck nearby to
switch it for the gimmick. The second normal half
could be placed on top of the deck so for a brief
moment, you will have one and a half decks in a
stack in your hand. Pull the line and allow the
gimmicked half to be pulled out of your hand (under
cover of your sleeve or arm on the table). Let the
gimmick fall into your lap (or pull it into your sleeve
if you prefer that method). The spectator will not see
cards missing at any time so this will be less
suspicious than a cornplete deck switch. Push the
deck forward on the table which will add to the
misdirection as you pull the deck gimmick out of

17) ENVELOPE LOAD: Have an envelope prepared
with a razor slit on the side opposite the envelope
flap. Have the slit large enough to allow the card to
slip into it. The slit should be about a half inch to an
inch from the bottom of the envelope. Have several
other envelopes stacked casually next to the deck.

Tell the spectator to select and sign the card and then
place it in the gimmicked half of the deck, but have
the gimmicked half on the top of the stack, and insert
the selected card near the top or about 5 or 6 cards
down...insert it from the side. Have the envelope
stacked slightly over the deck and allow the slit
opening to be beveled open to allow the card to be
fed into it. Hold the deck in one hand, the envelope
alongside it as you quickly feed the card out of the
deck and into the waiting slit. Put the deck down or
in your pocket and tell the spectator you have a
prediction in the envelope. Tear the envelope
bottom off and tear it along the slit so the evidence is
destroyed. But, let the spectator remove the card
from (the envelope. The prediction is not only correct
it is exact as the card is the signed one.

18) AFTER THOUGHT: Have a card selected from a
deck and placed into the gimmick. Tap the deck as if
to command the card to come to the top of the deck.
Show the top card, and it is wrong. Ask the spectator
to try again with another card, put this second card
below the first one in the gimmick (loosen the
tension to allow the line to feed around the card) .
This time do the haunted revelation and the selected
card is found, but wait, I think something else is
happening. Have the first lost card rise as well.

19) RAISE A POKER HAND: have a poker hand
installed in the deck, either all together in a block or
separately. If separate, command each card to rise
out of the deck as you pull five times. Or, have the
entire block of cards rise out together.
20) MULTI-PACKET STEAL: Using this block method. Have a group of five cards or so in the deck.
Place your hand over the deck, obscuring the deck with the four fingers. Allow the packet of cards to feed into your hands secretly, and then move your loaded) hand away from the deck. 
The cards will be in a "cardicians" grip ready to produce a fan of cards at the fingertips.
This feed in process may be used to produce a single card as well.

four cards to top of deck, as you cover the deck, have
the haunted pack feed you four different cards
or-place four cards near the deck, switch for 4 fed
cards, then place those cards into deck, tap the deck
and the four cards rose to top.

22) JUST FOR VARIETY: force a card, place it
anywhere in the deck (upper half). Have a different
back duplicate of the card in the pack and have the
forced card duplicate come out of the deck face up.
Then reveal the kicker, it now has a different back.
{patter about aliens coming to get the card and
altering the dna, the cards look the same, but there is
something a little different about it.)
23) TIME LINE: take a regular deck and perform routines while all the time, the haunted deck is sitting in a glass on the table next to you. Make sure that
one of the cards you use in the regular
deck routine is noted by the spectator.
Pretend not to be able to locate it and do
another trick. Some time during the
second (unrelated trick, remove the
missing card from the deck and keep doing the unrelated trick. Slowly let the haunted pack raise the duplicate card out of the deck but don't call attention
to it. At the end of the routine, ask if the spectator remembers the card you couldn't find before, point out the glass and raised card and say "look".

24) SVENGALI'S GHOST: have duplicate cards in
the entire haunted deck and holding the gimmicked
half only, turn your hand over and let all the
duplicates fall from the deck.

25) LINE THROUGH: thread the line through the
center of a foulard and then wrap the deck up as if
an heirloom. Open the cloth, which will obscure the
line and perform the trick while holding the corners
of the cloth.

This same method may be used with stiff paper,
allowing you to unwrap the deck from this card
board. The thickness will prevent the line from
tightening as you reveal the selected cards.

26) SECRET TRANSFER: have a reverse backed
deck placed alongside the haunted pack. Have the
spectator sign one of the cards and place it into the
haunted pack. Hold the other deck flush to the
haunted deck, and pull the line which will push the
selected card between the decks. Tell the spectator
that the card will mysteriously vanish from the one
deck and wind up in the other. Reveal the card in
the second deck, and it is the signed card.

27) SYMPATHETIC SISTER: have a svengali deck
alongside the haunted pack. Using the secret
transfer method, have the duplicate to the svengali
deck, stab the deck alongside of it, reveal the card
has bridged the decks together. When you remove
the upper portion of the svengali deck, the card from
the haunted deck is laying on top of the card in the
other deck. Reveal it to be the twin of the selected
card. Show that the (svengali) deck is normal.

28) SVENGONI: Using the svengali deck, have the
spectator pick the common card. Flip the deck to
show the selection is now gone. Use the haunted
pack and reveal the vanished card, same back and

29) EXTRA CARD ADDITION: count off one card at
a time and as you do so, allow the haunted pack to
add one or two cards to your set up. This will aid
you in the cards across routine.

30) THE SHUFFLED SET-UP: Many different effects
are possible with a pre-arranged deck. Naturally,
you cannot offer a set-up deck for shuffling.
However, if you have a haunted deck packet set up
in a certain order simply insert the arranged set-up
into the lower gimmicked pack. When ready to
perform, overhand shuffle the top section of cards
then pull on the line and allow the "set-up" group of
cards into your hand as if you had cut the cards out.
Place this entire block of cards on the top of the deck
and you are ready to perform a trick with a perfectly
set up card group. Cut off the top half of the deck
and place the gimmicked half of the deck aside as
you use the remaining cards for the trick.

31) THE NEXT ONE IS IT: Have a card selected and
replaced in the lower gimmicked half of the deck.
Shuffle the top cards remembering to stop at the
gimmicked block of cards and throw those
underneath the top half again. Hold the deck in your
left hand, deal out one card at a time from the
face-down pack, showing the card each time, and
making a neat pile face down on the table. Continue
dealing and let the chosen card feed into your hand
on one of the deals. Remember where it is as you
continue to deal the cards on the table. Then remark
that the next card you show will be the selected card.
Surprise them all by not showing the next card to be
dealt but by turning over the card in the pile on the

32) THE AUTOMATIC RISE: Have two cards in the
haunted deck. Let them feed into your hand and
show the two cards as one. Place the two cards on
top of the deck and then place the top one into the
normal block of cards. Tap the deck and show that
the card you "buried" has returned to the top.
33) ONE HAND LOCATION: Request that a card be selected. Remarking that "the hand is quicker than the eye," show that the selected card is not on the bottom nor on the top of the deck. Hold the deck in the right hand in position for the one-hand cut.
Allow the selected card to feed against your
forefinger as you keep pulling the line. When your finger feels the card, put your finger under the card and push up as it is feeding out. This will force the card to flip over and flop face up onto the top of the
deck and be perceived as a center cut revelation.

Another method to reveal the card from the pack in
an undetected fashion is to use a different set of
fingers and a different direction to the finger palm.
Use the forefinger on the left side of the deck, and
the pinkie at the other. This is done while the hand is
on top of the deck. Much like a "cardician" would
backpalm, you are going to front-palm. Once your
fingers are in contact with the wide edges of the
deck, pull the line. Move your hands forward over
the deck and allow the fed edge of the card to come
out held between the pinkie and first fingers. The
card will be hidden from view and you are able to
place it anywhere. The most natural method of
movement would be to merely come back at the top
of the deck and drop the card off. The gesture
would almost be like a wave of the hand over the
deck, but with a secret functionality. Tap the top
card and show the selected card has risen from the

35} SINGLE CARD PRODUCTION: Using the above
front palm-off, do not place the card back onto the
deck. Retain it in this secret palm grip and with the
same forward motion that "stole" the card, move
your hand forward and about eye level in front of
you. In a grasping motion, insert your right thumb
behind the card, and push your thumb forward but
maintain the finger grip on the cards edges. This will
cause the card to flip forward face towards your palm
and extended past the tip of the fingers. Push your
thumb some more until you have grasped the card
between the thumb and fingers edge. It will appear
as if the card has appeared from the air.

36) ACES AWAY: This move may be used for a four
ace production also. After the four cards are at the
tip of the fingers fan them at the fingertips, by sliding
the thumb up (while maintaining pressure on the
back of the cards,) and forefingers down about an
inch (with pressure on the front of the cards).
Note: this is similar to how "cardicians" "steal" a
stock of cards for fan productions.

37) COLOR CHANGE: The millennium move may
also be used as a visual color change. Whereas most
color changes steal a card from the back of the pack,
you will actually take the card from the middle,
undetected, and use it to change a card visibly from
an indifferent card to the selected card. Hold the
deck with the left hand with the face to the spectator
(spectator to the slight right shoulder to you). Hold
the deck at the lower wide ends of the decks sides,
and the gimmick section will feed the card away
from you. Pass your hand casually and closely
toward the deck in a forward waving manner. With
some practice, you will be able to get the edge of the
card on one swift and gentle move. Come back over
the deck face and stay there a second. (You have
just placed the selected card on the face of the deck
secretly). Slowly, move your hand away and show
that the card has changed to the selection.

Once you have this mastered, try holding on to the
card a little longer before doing the change. See if
your mis-directive technique is working enough to
move the palmed card hand around without

38) THE COINCIDENCE: Have a card selected and
(without allowing its face to be seen} initialed on the
back by a spectator. Have the card inserted into the
lower haunted gimmick. Shuffle the upper cards and
as you cut the deck one last time, feed the selected
card onto the bottom of the upper group of cards and
lay the deck face down on the table. Have this
packet turned face up and ask the spectator to mark
the face-up card. He is of course, unaware that it is
the same one he previously initialed on the back.
Shuffle again. Locate the marked card in any way
you wish, then show the amazing coincidence of the
spectator marking the same card twice.

39) THE PERFECT COUNT: Remark to the
spectators that you have, through years of
experience, developed the ability to judge the amount
of cards in any packet by its thickness. Cut the deck
at the gimmick and hand the packet you have
removed to a spectator telling him that you have
judged exactly half the pack.

40) HEAD CASE: Palm off the "selected" card and
hold it against your forehead secretly. The oil from
your skin will let it stay on the forehead and
sometimes the spectator never sees it until you point
it out. State that the card is on your mind.

41) CARD RISE FROM POCKET (shirt pocket): take
the pin off of the line and thread it through your shirt
pocket and into your pants pocket. This will allow
you to pull your line using your hand in your pocket.
Have a duplicate to the forced card in half of the
deck (gimmicked half). Leave the entire half deck in
your pocket. Force the duplicate from the normal
cards, or a standard deck. Put the deck away, into
the pocket with the line, and state that you have a
ghostlike helper who can find your card for you. As
you are pretending to find the card in your pocket,
you actually are pulling the line. Slowly, let the
selected card appear from your pocket.

42) BLANK CARDS: ghost tells all-message or color
revelation): Have a prediction or message on a blank
card, and let the haunted pack reveal "I knew you
would chose the quarter, or do the book test and
have the phrase from the book predicted on the
blank card.

43) WALLET CARD RISE: Using the haunted
method, prepare two or three cards like a mini
haunted deck. Have these cards in your wallet as
you thread the line through the wallet to an
inconspicuous spot on your person. Have a business
card slowly rise out of the wallet, or a duplicate to a
forced card appear rising out of the wallet.

44) SLEEVE METHOD: One of the original
instruction methods described connecting the line
from your right wrist, up your sleeve, across your
back, and out the other sleeve to the deck. This
meant always having to "wear" the deck in order to
perform, although some ingenious people had
developed a little connection clip at the left wrist to
attach the line to the sleeve gimmick. To perform
this method, you had to have the line loose around
your back, and then by stretching your arms and
expanding your back, the tension was brought on the
line. It works, and the advantage is that the line is
hidden completely by your garments. Disadvantage
is, what do you do with the deck after the effect
except stick it up your sleeve. This method,
however, led to the creation of a mini-set-up and the
supersteal holdout.

Separate your gimmick from the single cards. This is known as a mini-set-up. Or, make a haunted pack with only two or three cards. Affix a line to the center of one card, a hole in the other, then make another hole in the bottom of the card and fish the line through this. attach the line to wherever the routine calls for in the following suggestions. When a card is placed in the gimmick, it will force out just as it does in the deck, the slim line gimmick allows it to be mounted in unusual places and positions.
46) VEST STEAL: Have a
two or three card mini
set-up pinned between
buttons of your shirt, or out
from the button area of your
vest. Have the selected card
feed out of the set-up, and
into your waiting fingertips.

THE PLACE: By placing
a rubber band or even
tape around the
mini-setup, the card or
cards will not fall out.

They can then be mounted in any direction. Upside
down, at the edge of a jacket lining for a coat steal,
or sleeve load etc.. In the supersteal method, I have
had a packet of 8 to 10 cards ready to be fed into my
fingertips. Instead of letting the line be controlled by
a pocket pull, I merely let it hang with a loop on it's
end so I can insert my thumb in the loop end using
the opposite hand. This is a method used for dove
productions and dove harnesses. I pick up a silk
using the right hand, (with sleeve load). I then pass
the silk to the left hand and in doing so, I engage the
loop and pull the silk through my right hand by
pulling it with the left. This action also feed the card
load into my waiting fingers. I then flick the thumb
forward which reveals the cards, and then fan them
out. The fan of cards have appeared from nowhere.

The illustration to the left
shows a mini-set-up
mounted in the sleeve area.
The line could be placed
hanging down, or fed
through the sleeve and into
the opposite hand.
The connection could also
be attached to the vest and
the forward movement of
the hand could cause the
gimmick to release the cards
into the hand.

48)COIN PRODUCTION: Cut out a series of holes
big enough for a coin to fit into (about four cards
thick). Glue this group together, with a normal card
on top, and insert it into the center of the gimmicked
section of deck. Place a coin in the pocket. Let the
card mysteriously move and drop the coin out. Take
the coin load card and shove it back in the deck. A
coin will have appeared next to the deck. This can
be a coin that has vanished from a previous routine,
or the gold coin from a "scotch and soda set).

49) CARD PULL VANISH: Have the mini-set-up in
your hand with a card loaded and ready to go. Show
the entire setup squared in the hand. Turn your
hand over, allow the loose card to feed out a little
and then let the entire mini-set-up go up your sleeve
leaving you with just the switched card. Turn your
hand face up and revea1 the change.

similar set-up, make sure that the card you show is
let's say an jack of hearts, and change it for a jack of
spades, a color change.

51) CARD PULL CARD SWITCH: Show the face of
the mini-setup, vanish the setup as you retain the fed
card. Don't show it yet, but merely place it into the
deck on the table. Tap the deck and reveal a
duplicate card on top. If the spectator looks for the
card in the deck, it will be a different card.

52) WANDERFUL RISE: choke up or cut the line
and attach it to a wand. As you raise the wand the
card rises out of the deck. This is a complete
package rise without the normal attachment.

from a dollar snatcher gimmick or reel, through a
mini-setup. Place a card in the set-up and retain
pressure on the reel. Loosen the grip and the reel
will do the pulling of the line for you. If your reel is
good enough, the control will be exceptional and
eliminate the need for a body attachment. Further
refinement would be to hollow out a section of deck
with one card over the reel. You could then exert
pressure on the reel after the card is in the gimmick
section, and have the card rise on command without
a body attachment.


54) FOLDING DOLLAR BILL: This tricks line setup
can be the same as the haunted pack. Fold a bill in
half the long way, then fold it in half the other way.
Now fold the remaining half sections, one towards
the center on one side, turn it over and fold the other
side to the center as well. This will form an
accordion like folded bill and a little packet about
1%" square. Push a needle (with line attached)
through the center of this folded bill, and make a
knot in the line. Tape this line in place. Unfold the
bill carefully and hold it flat on the palm with line
attached to the foot as per the haunted connection.
Pull the line, and the bill will mysteriously fold and
follow the creases you have made.

55) ACROBATIC MATCHES: Famous magician of
the 50's and 60's was Amadeo, he developed a
routine with a matchbox, strung similarly to the
haunted pack. A line was attached to one of the
matches. The match tray was removed and a needle
with the line attached was placed through the box.
Insert the the match in the tray, and the tray back in
the box, then wind the line once around the box and
you are ready to perform. Pull on the line and the
matchbox will move on the hand, roll over once and
then slowly open it's tray. Then as a finale, the
match pops out of the drawer. Pick up the match
and light it and the gimmick is melted off of the
match and the line is pulled out of the box leaving
you with an ungimmicked box to inspect.

56) JUMBO CARDS: may be used
as easily as the smaller deck. The
line will not be visible from stage,
but the rising card is highly visible.
You could also have an assistant
pull the line and make it completely mysterious.

57) DOLLAR BILL FROM CARDS: Any flat object
such as a folded bill can be used in conjunction with
the deck. I would suggest creating a cut-out pocket
to fit the dollar into. This deck would then be used
as an inconspicuous aid to switch a gimmicked bill
with a real one.

58) BILLET LOAD: Have a small piece of paper with
a prediction of a card on it. First show it blank.
Force a card that matches the prediction, as you force
the card from the top of the haunted pack, let the
gimmick feed you the billet with the prediction.
Place the selected forced card into the haunted pack
gimmick. Slip the blank prediction under the deck
and put the deck in the box along with the blank
billet. You now have a spirit writing effect along
with a haunted routine. Show that the previously
blank paper has the correct card written on it, and
open the box flap and summon the card to rise from
the deck.

59) TAROT CARD: A haunted Tarot card deck is a
natural for the spirit routines, having the specific
cards ready to reveal a fortune to the believing

60) ESP CARDS: Consist of about six symbols.
Convert this deck into a haunted deck. Have the
symbol selected and placed into this deck for a
mysterious revelation of the selected card.

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